Ganga: Our sacred link from the Himalayas to Sundarban is truly a world heritage

By Vidya Bhushan Rawat 

For millions of Indians, the Ganga begins at Gaumukh and culminates its journey at Gangasagar in the Bay of Bengal near Sundarban. Every year, thousands of pilgrims flock to Gangasagar to visit the beautiful Sagardweep on the auspicious day of Makar Sankranti in January. However, in technical terms, the Ganga has a supremely fascinating journey, both during its formation in the Uttarakhand Himalayas and its culmination in Bangladesh before flowing into the Bay of Bengal at Bhola Island. 

The fact of the matter is that only a minuscule volume of about 1,150 cumecs (1.5%) of the mainstream discharge actually flows down through the Bhagirathi-Hooghly, while the mainstream Ganga flows beyond the Farakka Barrage into Bangladesh (76,500 cumecs). 

Ganga at Godagari 

From Farakka onwards, the main stem of the Ganga serves as the borderline between India and Bangladesh until Lalgola in India. After Godagari in Bangladesh, the river flows mostly within Bangladesh. The Mahananda River, emerging from the hills near Darjeeling, passes through various places before entering Panchgarh, Bangladesh, on the Siliguri border. The river then re-enters Indian territory, flowing through various districts of Bihar and Bengal, and finally merges into the Ganga or Padma, as it is called in Bangladesh, at a place called Godagari. 

There is a misconception that the Ganga becomes the Padma once it enters Bangladesh. However, the history of the Ganges predates the creation of the boundaries between India and Bangladesh. The culture and mythology of the Ganges are extremely powerful and share a common linkage between the Himalayas and the Bay of Bengal. 

For instance, the stream that rises at Gaumukh in the Himalayas is called the Bhagirathi. Interestingly, the mouth of the distributary of the Ganga at Giria in the Murshidabad district, which breaks from the main stem and moves towards West Bengal, is also known as the Bhagirathi initially, until Nabodweep in the Nadia district, after which it is called the Hooghly until it empties into Gangasagar in the Bay of Bengal.

The Godagari Ferry Ghat is very similar, with boating services to the Charland, the newly created islands formed by the splitting of the river. Between Lalgola in India and Godagari in Bangladesh, there are actually two Ganges flowing, with a Charland (mud island) created by floods in between. These Charlands are extremely fertile, particularly for mustard, vegetables, and a single paddy crop. Both stems of the river meet near Godagari and then flow as the Ganga towards Rajshahi, one of the cleanest and most beautiful places in Bangladesh. 

The riverbank is beautiful, though there seems to be no effort to light it up at night, depriving people of a glimpse of the historic river. Rajshahi could create magic with its riverbank if the local municipality took the initiative. There are makeshift shops and tea vendors along the bank, but it is absolutely dark, making it impossible to see the river after sunset.

About 25 kilometers from Rajshahi lies the largest Shiva Temple, built by the Puthia dynasty under the patronage of Raja Man Singh, who was the governor of undivided Bengal under Emperor Akbar. A visit to this temple reveals not only its beautiful architecture but also a large Shivalinga. Behind the temple is the serene Govinda Sarovar, and just a few yards away is another temple dedicated to Radha-Krishna. The Rajbari here looks extraordinary. I had the opportunity to go inside the temple and have the darshan of the Shivlinga. It is good that these places are under the Archaeological Department of Bangladesh, but they need more protection and preservation.

About 100 kilometers from Rajshahi, in the Naogaon district of Bangladesh, lies the historic Paharpur Buddha Monastery, also known as Sompura Mahavihara. Built by the Pala dynasty king Dharmapala (781-821), Rajshahi is the most important testament to the rise and decline of Buddhism in this region, which was part of undivided Bengal, including present-day Bangladesh, Bihar, and Odisha. A visit to Paharpur’s Sompura Monastery fills one with pride, reflecting the historical role played by Buddhism in enlightening India. Today, these regions not only lack quality education but are also entrenched in deep-rooted prejudices and superstitions. The decline of Buddhism paved the way for forces of darkness and bigotry.

As mentioned earlier, Bangladesh has a Himalayan region in the districts of Dinajpur (a major part of which is now in India and part of West Bengal). There is a beautiful temple known as the Kantajew Temple, dedicated to Krishna and his wife Rukmini. It was built by Maharaja Pran Nath between 1704 and 1722. People visit this temple regularly to offer puja. The Kanchanjunga peak of the Himalayas is visible from this part, but alas, it was a cloudy sky throughout the day when I visited.

Ganga-Jamuna Sangam at Daulatdia and the Rise of Padma 

After traversing about 150 kilometers from Rajshahi, the Ganga enters a place called Daulatdia, where it merges with the Jamuna River. The combined waters of these two great rivers are then known as the Padma. Daulatdia is a village in the Rajbari district where the Ganga and Jamuna merge and adopt the new name of Padma (or Podda, as it is locally called). Located about 75 kilometers from the capital city of Dhaka, Daulatdia is similar to Prayagraj (Allahabad), where the Yamuna merges into the Ganga. However, in Daulatdia, both rivers adopt a new name after their massive merger, known as the Padma.

Interestingly, the confluence of the Ganga and Jamuna in Bangladesh is much larger than that of Prayagraj. At both Prayagraj and Daulatdia, the Jamuna is the bigger river, but the difference is that at Prayagraj, the Yamuna merges into the Ganga and adopts its name, while at Daulatdia, both rivers adopt a new name after their merger.

Prior to independence, the confluence of the Ganga and Jamuna was at Goalundo, an extremely important trade town that came onto the Eastern India Railway map in 1909 when the Calcutta-Howrah network was linked to it, providing a connection to Dhaka. People would disembark at Goalundo and then move towards Narayanganj by steamer, before catching a bus or other road transport to Dhaka. Bangladesh has always been a country that relies heavily on waterways.

Situated about 75 kilometers from Dhaka, Daulatdia is linked to the Dhaka National Highway via a ferry at Paturia Ferry Ghat, about a 45-minute boat ride. Today, a massive bridge over the Padma has made road transport and connectivity easier but has destroyed the thriving tourism business, hotels, and waterways in the town, leaving lakhs of people unemployed.

Sadly, Daulatdia village is globally infamous for hosting the largest brothel in Bangladesh, where sex work is legal. Various reports have emerged about the plight of the sex workers living here. Pimps and brokers are everywhere, from the Paturia Ferry Ghat to the Daulatdia Ferry Ghat, offering "comfortable" services. Prostitution is legalized in Bangladesh, and while it may not be termed a "profession," a large number of girls here have been forced into the flesh trade.

The water at the confluence looks better, but the air is thick, with layers of white smog settling in during the day, especially in winter. Summers are said to be extremely hot and dry in the region. Both sides of the ferry ghats have private buses plying to various destinations, including Dhaka.

Goalundo and Daulatdia are twin towns and well-known. The British developed a railway track between Howrah and Goalundo in 1909 to connect Calcutta to Dhaka, two extremely important cities of undivided Bengal.

Padma-Meghna Estuary at Chandpur 

The Padma now moves towards Chandpur, where it has another massive confluence with the Meghna River, which arrives from Bhairab Bazar after the old Brahmaputra River flows into it. After the split in the Brahmaputra, the main river merges with the Teesta and is known as the Jamuna, while the other part, which rarely has enough water, finally flows into the Meghna at Bhairab Bazar.

The Meghna River is born at a place called Markuli in the Sylhet district, where two rivers, the Surma and Kushiyara, coming from the Barak Valley in India, merge. The combined flow after Markuli is known as the Meghna. Markuli is a small town in the Baniachong upazila of the Habiganj district in Sylhet Division.

Chandpur is one of the most famous port cities of Bangladesh, as two of the most powerful rivers, the Padma and Meghna, meet here. In fact, it is the confluence of three rivers, as the Dakatiya River also merges into the Padma and Meghna. Every year, heavy floods result in soil erosion and create Charlands. Chandpur has witnessed the natural creation of Charlands, but they are only temporary and can be eroded by nature alone. James Rennell, the British surveyor, realized the importance of this town and had it declared a subdivision in 1878. The city, which became a district in 1984, can now be termed the "Headquarters of Hilsa." There is a Fisheries Research Institute here.

Chandpur was part of the Tripura state under the Comilla district before 1947 but is now part of the Chittagong division. It is a thriving city, made lively due to its strategic location. It serves as a link between Bangladesh and its territories of indigenous people. Chandpur can be termed the real place of "Triveni," where three rivers merge, an extremely rare phenomenon. In Hindu mythology, most sacred places are termed "Triveni," as the third river is always mystical. Here, however, we have a clear Triveni: the Dakatiya, Padma, and Meghna. The Dakatiya River divides Chandpur town into two historical parts. On one side is the old market, while the other side has a park and Raktsthal, a memorial dedicated to the Bangla uprising against Pakistan, which ultimately led to the formation of the new nation. This war memorial commemorates not only the popular language protest in Dhaka but also the surrender of Pakistani forces under General A.K. Niazi to General Jagjit Singh Arora of the Indian Army. I am happy that this memorial celebrates and acknowledges the heroism of the Indian armed forces, which played an unforgettable role in the 1971 war with Pakistan. I hope this important part of history is not forgotten amidst the new political realities emerging in Bangladesh after the August 2024 revolution.

Chandpur can be termed the headquarters of the river Hilsa. It is a big port from where you can get launches to various cities. Waterways are the most popular and comfortable mode of transport in Bangladesh. The ships have all modern amenities and provide an extremely relaxing and comfortable journey.

The tides are normally high in the morning, but the rivers' merging point is massive. Both the Meghna and Padma bring volumes of water, and hence it is also termed the Meghna-Padma Estuary. About seven kilometers from the main Chandpur town is the Charland, now known as Mini Cox's Bazar, though there is no market there except for a few vendors selling soft drinks. A number of locals and tourists come to this place, perhaps to find some isolation and seclusion, which has become impossible in crowded urban locations. Chandpur, therefore, is an extremely important port in Bangladesh.

The Meghna River moves forward from here on its final journey. Interestingly, just as the Ganga in the Himalayas is made up of various rivers, each named Ganga by the people, we find a similarity at the end as well. The Ganga, Jamuna, Padma, and Meghna all share the same waters, and at the end, the Meghna splits into various small rivers before finally merging into the Bay of Bengal. From Chandpur to the Bay of Bengal, the Meghna covers around 264 kilometers and empties itself into the Bay through four mouths: Tetulia, Ilisha, Hatia, and Bamni, mostly in and around Bhola Island.

The Historic City of Dhaka  

On the outskirts of Dhaka lies the old linkage of the city with its Buddhist past, apart from a town settled by Mughal King Aurangzeb. Sonargaon was the original capital city of this part. Prior to the entry of the Nawabs and Mughals, this city had its historic Buddhist and Hindu linkages. Many say that the foundation of this city was laid some 800 years ago by King Ballal Sen. At the Dhakeshwari Temple, which is also termed Bangladesh’s national temple, the priest Rajiv Chakravarty narrated to me the story that Dhaka city emerged from Dhakeshwari Devi, an incarnation of Goddess Kali. In Hindu mythology, we worship all the rivers, as the priest explained:

गंगा सिंधु सरस्वती च यमुना गोदावरी नर्मदा  

कावेरी सरयू महेन्द्रतनया चर्मण्यवती वेदिका।  

क्षिप्रा वेत्रवती महासुरनदी ख्याता जया गण्डकी  

पूर्णाः पूर्णजलैः समुद्रसहिताः कुर्वन्तु मे मंगलम् ।।  

This shloka means that all the rivers mentioned above, along with the ocean, should bring prosperity to me. The glory of the Ganga is indescribable. The tradition of bowing to the Ganga to make one's life meaningful is ancient.

Dhaka has historical monuments from the Mughal era, but the city also emerged as the conscious keeper of Bengali identity and national pride during the War of Liberation in 1971. Dhaka University is a witness to the first uprising against the imposition of the Urdu language in Pakistan. In 1952, the then Governor-General of Pakistan, Mohammad Ali Jinnah, visited Dhaka University and spoke to a large gathering. "From now on, Urdu shall be the national language of Pakistan," said Jinnah, but he could not complete his sentence as people started shouting slogans and rising in rage against the announcement. Jinnah had to return humiliated. Today, historical buildings face deep neglect. Dhaka University’s Department of Physics is housed in the Lord Curzon Building. Near the university’s Law Faculty is the memorial for the 1952 language martyrs, but unfortunately, the place is crying for attention. The memorial has layers of dust over it, and amidst that, someone has written something in Arabic, reflecting the irony of the situation.

Dhaka city’s lifeline is the Buriganga River, which branches out from the Dhaleshwari River, a distributary of the Jamuna. You can understand how rivers split and create multiple distributaries before finally draining into the Bay of Bengal. The Dhaleshwari, a distributary of the Meghna, passes through Dhaka city. Another channel in the older part of the city is called the Buriganga, which hosts the Launch Ghat of the city. In Bangladesh, Launch Ghats are known for hosting larger ships, while Ferry Ghats are meant for smaller boats and shorter journeys. The water stinks, and the Buriganga seems to be one of the most polluted rivers in the world.

At Sadarghat Launch, you can find luxurious cruises as well as comfortable trawlers for different parts of the country. Dhaka is linked to Barisal, Bhola, Chandpur, Rajshahi, and Chittagong by waterways. This is the most comfortable and easily accessible transport system in Bangladesh so far. It is reported that plastic waste, untreated water, and sewage overflow directly pollute the Buriganga River. A five-minute stay over the river becomes unbearable due to the powerful stench. Though there is enough water in the river, sadly, it is a river of waste, plastic, and leftover material. It is sad that a historical city like Dhaka is suffering from absolute air pollution, and thick layers of smog force you to keep a mask on, much like Delhi in the post-Diwali period.

A Beautiful Journey to Bhola 

The Buriganga finally flows into the Meghna River, and the massive Meghna, carrying water from the Ganga, Jamuna, and Padma, moves towards its final destination in the Bay of Bengal at Bhola Island. From Dhaka, the easiest way to reach Bhola is by launch, the large ships that have all the facilities and are extremely comfortable. It takes nearly six hours to reach Bhola Island, the largest island in Bangladesh. Bhola today faces threats from soil erosion and climate change. It is surrounded by various distributaries of the Meghna and forms estuaries with them. These Meghna estuaries are known as the four "mouths": Ilisha, Hatia, Tetulia, and Bamni. Each of these rivers is massive and virtually looks like a sea. You can’t really tell where they are coming from or where they are flowing. It is water all the way. Bangladesh is a country located between violent rivers and the powerful Bay of Bengal. A majority of the rivers rising from the Himalayas end their journey at the Bay of Bengal, so the rising water levels in both the rivers and the sea are a threat to the communities living on their banks.

About 10 kilometers from Bhola’s Ilisha Ferry Ghat is a place called Majher Char, where nearly 10,000 families live. The only way to connect to Bhola Island is through local ferry services, which take nearly 30-45 minutes to reach the island. The boat ride is one of the riskiest I have experienced. There seems to be no regulation as people throng to catch the boat. It is overcrowded, not only with people but also with essential commodities that local vendors carry. In the morning, when the tides rise high, the boat jerks many times, but for the locals, it is a journey as usual. For an outsider, however, it takes your breath away. There is no fixed ghat, and soil erosion is visible. About a dozen villagers, particularly the youth, came to narrate their plight. "Sir, about 200 families have lost their houses and fertile land due to recent soil erosion by the Meghna River here. These houses were located about two to three kilometers from the current embankment of the river at Majher Char village," they said. The villagers warned that if protective measures are not taken, this village might not exist in another two to three kilometers by the end of March due to the rising water levels of both the river and the sea. Estuaries are basically melting points of rivers and seas, and therefore, a rise in water levels is already threatening people and their livelihoods.

I also visited the Tetulia River, another mouth of the Meghna on the other side of Bhola Island. There too, a Char island has been created, and soil erosion is visible. Bhola to Gangasagar is actually the Sundarban region, about 60% of which is in Bangladesh and 40% in India. There are beautiful mangroves and huge biodiversity. Bhola is a district town and very similar to Sagardweep or Gangasagar Island. The Sundarbans were declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1987.

Bhola is a district town with a population of 1.8 million. It became a district in 1984, though initially, it was under Noakhali in 1845 and later included as a subdivision of Barisal district in 1869. The climate is much better than the highly polluted Dhaka city, but the only way to reach Bhola is through the efficient and comfortable waterways.

Ganga: A World Heritage 

It has been a memorable journey for me to cover the entire stretch of the Ganga, from its source to its end at the Bay of Bengal. This journey took me to various communities and individuals and has been an eye-opener in many ways. It gave me an idea of the Ganga and how it has become such a mighty, revered, and powerful identity of South Asia. The impact of the Ganga on our lives and culture remains unprecedented, and its importance does not diminish even when it flows through different territories. Though it is called the Padma or Podda in Bangladesh, particularly after Daulatdia, there are songs about the beauty of the Padma. The immortal novelist Manik Bandopadhyay, who was born in Dumka (now part of Jharkhand, India), wrote *Padma Nadir Majhi*, which was later immortalized on celluloid by director Gautam Ghosh and legendary actor Utpal Dutt. Even Rabindranath Tagore was fascinated by the beauty of the Padma.

It is true that whether we call it the Ganga, Padma, Podda, or Meghna, it is the holy water of the Himalayas that makes them truly life-giving. I loved Bhupen Hazarika’s immortal rendition, "Vistar Hai Apar":

विस्तार है आपार, प्रजा दोनों पार  

करे हाहाकार निःशब्द सदा  

ओ गंगा तुम, गंगा बहती हो क्यूँ?  

I used to wonder why Bhupen Hazarika said this about the Ganga. The fact is that Bhupen grew up in Assam on the banks of the Brahmaputra, but when we see the mighty rivers in Bangladesh, which look like oceans, one can understand that for believers, every river is the Ganga—holy and sacred. In the Himalayas, people term rivers as Ganga, and when we come to the plains, we have the same feeling about the tributaries and distributaries of the Ganga. Thus, the Ganga is truly a world heritage, linking the Himalayas to the Sundarbans. In this way, the Himalayas, the Ganga, and the Sundarbans are our identity and heritage. Let us celebrate the extraordinary creations of nature and protect and preserve them so that future generations too feel blessed with the might and beauty of the Ganges and all its tributaries and distributaries.